History

By Isaac Samuel (Support work on his Patreon)

Hausaland region of northern Nigeria was home to one of the largest textile industries in pre-colonial Africa, whose scale and scope were unparalleled throughout most of the continent.

As one German explorer who visited the region in 1854 noted, there was ‘something grand’ about this textile industry whose signature robes could be found as far as Tripoli, Alexandria, Mauritania, and the Atlantic coast. Centers of textile production like Kano were home to thousands of tailors and dyers producing an estimated 100,000 dyed-robes a year in 1854, and more than two million rolls of cloth per year by 1911.

Much of the industry’s growth was associated with the establishment of the empire of Sokoto in the 19th century, which created West Africa’s largest state after the fall of Songhai, and expanded pre-existing patterns of trade and production that facilitated the emergence of one of the few examples of proto-industrialization

At Ocacia we do not use a lot of cotton, except in denim. But decided to write this quick article because the history of cotton is so integral to the history of Africa especially the West dependence on it and the consequences to African people (being enslaved) due to their need for labor.  Native Americans were observed growing cotton by the Coronado expedition in the early 1540s. I am not sure but no one from West Africa had cotton knowledge. They did come with skills in agriculture But I am not sure cotton specialization was one of those skills. The earliest reference to a cotton spinning wheel comes from the Muslim world in the 11th century, it then is said to have gone from Iran to India. 

From an economic standpoint cotton made by slave labor accounted for 40% of all British exports (which went back to Africa to procure more captives). 80% of Birtisns essential raw material. Prior to cotton, which came late to Europe via Arab traders, wool was the fabric of choice.